Paris!

 

Paris!!

Well we made it! What a journey and what a joy and a privilege to have completed it with James. We really did face up to some big, big challenges and, looking back from the comfort of Burrough Hall I am astonished that we managed it. We had some enormous blows and some great highs, occasional entirely selfish behaviour from others, massively outstripped by the generosity and kindness of so many. It is the contrasts which make such a journey so interesting. I think the psychology of it all was by far the fascinating thing, both our own and others. We had some great laughs and almost a few tears, but we remain great friends.

 

The final day was incident free, perhaps the first since we left Beijing. We had only 200km to go and motored through the beautiful French countryside through Fountainbleu and into Paris. Everyone was so delighted to be arriving at the finish. 97 cars started and I think 83 qualified as successful finishers. Finishing the rally in Place de Vendome was a truly fantastic experience. We came around the corner to be met by a banner saying “Car 66 we love you!” and a team of “66” tee-shirt wearing family and friends. All the family climbed on the car (which began to make some unfortunate creaks), Coco burst into tears, and we crossed the line. What a moment. We hung around and saw some other teams finish and then set off to the Intercontiental for lunch – it was without doubt the most delicious cheeseburger I have ever eaten in my life.

 

The car, bless her, looks a complete wreck. The whole of the back end is held together with ropes and straps. The front headlight support has been welded three times. The bonnet is held down with bungees. But she got us there!

 

Here’s a quick summary of what we dealt with;

 

Beijing: piston seized just after the start, in a tunnel with enormous volumes of fast moving trucks and cars. The chances of us being clouted straight up the back end were sizeable but we got out and pushed the car, uphill, and out of the tunnel. We were then given a tow to the nearest filling station which got us off the road. The Chinese needed all the cars out of China on the same day, so we had no option we had to truck to the border and then arrange for a truck to get us to Ulan Baatar in Mongolia which we did. So day 1 we spent in the car with our Chinese “minders”, day 2 we spent in a taxi to the border (by which time 7 cars were needing transport), day 3 we spent in a mini bus to Ulan Baatar and day 4 we arrived at the hotel.

 

Ulan Baatar: although the car was meant to arrive before all the others the driver disappeared and it arrived about 24 hours late, meaning that when we got to the garage there were no mechanics available. James and I helped push another car off the truck which gave him an enormous nose bleed which simply didn’t stop. We started work at about 1pm with the rally leaving the next morning. At this stage we had a completely seized engine. James, bleeding profusely, and I started to take the head off the engine. The garage was so worried that a nurse arrived and insisted he go to hospital! I eventually got some help from a mechanic called Ronaldo who was fantastic and we continued to get the head off. Just at the point when we could lift the head, David Ayre, turned up to give advice which was absolutely critical to the outcome. He knew exactly what the problem was and more importantly, if we had the replacement parts, how to fix it. We did have the parts and he very kindly prepared them and fitted them. The it was engine and sump back together, new oil, 45 minutes running in, oil change and 9 hours later we were back in the rally. We had however gone from gold to bronze without a days rallying!

 

Mongolia: about 10km from the end of our first days rallying in Monolia and we managed to run out of petrol! Bit of a panic until we realised what the problem was. First lesson in not panicking! We spent the night in a Yurt and set off in the morning to the start. Unfortunately we weren’t absolutely sure where the start was and panicked that we had missed it. Second lesson in not panicking! James did a 3 point turn and reversed straight into the side of a minibus! The minibus owner was unfazed and grateful for the amount of dollars he was offered, sadly the frame of the car on the rear right boot was completely broken. We strapped it together as best we could and moved off. In addition all the vibration the previous day had destroyed the internal fitting of one of the headlights, so we were down to one.

 

Mongolia: driving in the desert puts untold pressure on these old cars and we found ourselves driving along as if the brakes were permanently on. One of the other Lagindas had the same problem which is that the servo was completely clogged up. Not only would we use enormous amounts of fuel if we continued but we would knacker the brakes. David Ayre said that he would clean it up if we got it out and James and I spent the best part of 3 hours getti8ng the servo out and another 2 putting it back in. We were back up and running again.

 

Mongolia: at the same time we managed to get a temporary repair done on the boot and the frame which supports the headlights welded for the first time.

 

Mongolia: the final day in Mongolia we awoke when it was -8C to discover that the car would not start. There was no electrics to the fuel pump! The fuse box which contains only 5 fuses, was clearly damaged and we only had power to 2 circuits. With help we managed to connect a wire to the fuel pumps and were running again. We had no lights. We then conked out again in no-mans land between Mongolia and Russia! I was not a happy bunny with visions of being left there without a clue what to do!  Luckily with help from others we got going again and finally crossed into Russia. We had no lights and 400km to go with about 2 hours of sun light left. When the light ran out we had to stop.

 

Russia: Stopped in a lay-by in the pitch dark with no lights, suddenly a transporter and about 3 cars screech to a halt alongside. The transporter is taking another car to the hotel and the other cars are occupied by enthusiasts. They get the one light working in 10 minutes and we set off following to transporter to the hotel. 2 hours later we stop at a garage to discover that our roof is hanging on by only 2 screws. So we have to take it off and hope that we don’t get stuck in the rain. We arrive at the hotel at  04.30am Another drama addressed.

 

Kazakhstan: towards the end of our first day in Kazakhstan, heading into camp the boot finally gave way. The wheel had to be taken off to reduce the weight and the strapping made far more secure. Half an hour later the car filled with smoke which clearly dictated that we stopped to review the problem. There was oil everywhere in the engine and it was pouring from a copper oil pipe which had snapped with the vibrations. I thought we were definitely out, but Peter Banham, one of the support mechanics arrived 10 minutes later and with some hose, a drill and some solder had the thing repaired and we were off again.

 

Kazakhstan: we had some running repairs carried out in Almaty meaning that we had two headlights working, the roof back on and we had reduced the amount of oil that was leaking from the engine. We were consuming an enormous amount of oil, most of which seemed to be leaking from various points. The consumption of oil continued throughout the rally.

 

Uzbekistan:  We started slipping out of 4^th gear which meant some wear on the gear box. We took advice and were told that this was not repairable easily and that it would continue to wear and get worse, eventually meaning that 4^th gear was unusable. The only solution was to bungee strap 4^th gear in place and hope that it survived until we get to Paris. This was a problem which we had to fight against all the way home. It got worse and worse but somehow we got to Paris, for the last week or so holding the gear in place manually. Fine, as long as you concentrate, but as soon as one stopped she was out of gear.

 

Iran: we managed to repair the headlight again which had fallen to pieces. This repair lasted through to the end and is a masterclass in what can be achieved with “plastic metal”.

 

Greece: up in the mountains in Greece, crossing across to catch a ferry to Italy, we lost all our oil pressure. Thank God James noticed and stopped immediately, meaning that we didn’t do any damage to the engine. We were back on a truck to the harbour and then in Italy another truck to Via Reggio where we stripped off the sump and discovered that all the new pipework into the new oil filter was shot. We replumbed from the oil pump into the block and after some 7 hours work we were up and running again.

 

France: the penultimate day and we had a massive rearend shunt, having what was left of our boot taken out by another competitor. It shattered the wooden frame, damaged both rear wings and punched a bloody great hole in the boot. Somehow we managed to strap the whole thing back together with ropes and straps. A sheet of aluminium hide the damage to the boot and duck tape hid the rest. We were up and running again.

 

A brief resume of the challenges we faced. Never easy but always addressable for which we were very lucky. Many other cars were shipped home, one burnt out on the side of the road and is, as far as I am aware, still there.

 

A great privilege to have completed the rally, now it’s a question of getting back to normal life and thinking about getting the car repaired.

 

Thank you for all your support, it has been fantastic.

 

RHC

 

 

 

 

It's over - We've done the dream.

So after numerous problems and having driven through 11 countries and just over 

14,000 kms we have achieved what sometimes felt might not be achievable. We arrived 

in Paris to a fantastic reception from family and friends yesterday and the sense of achievement 

was just fabulous.

Our problems on the route have been too numerous to mention so it was a joy that our last day of driving was 

uneventful except for the demise of the Chairman. He has been a stalwart throughout the trip 

but succumbed to an aggressive gearchange early on Saturday morning. 

We had a great party in Paris last night and now will spend some time unwinding and sleeping.

Thankyou to all our supporters and especially to our families for their patience , love and faith. 

The penultimate day

Driving very cautiously this morning we decided to follow the route map to Circuit de Bresse to watch the other cars compete and then take the motorway to Troyes. How the fates conspire.

Following a small roundabout in a village south of Pont d'Ain James had to stop to change down. Befor we knew it Arthur Manners drove straight into the back of the car smashing the other side of the boot and all the lights. There is a certain symmetry to it all. James reversed into a minibus on the first day in Mongolia smashing the left back, and he's driving again when we smash up the right back.

Tim Wilkinson stopped very kindly and by removing woodwork, bending bodywork and various critical straps we got it reasonably stable. The application of aluminium sheet and duct tape has made it look very reasonable.

No one ever said it was going to be easy, I just expected it to be easier when we got to France! No such luck but vitally we are still running.

Our only risk now is that the gendarmes get a bit cross about it. We are back running to Troyes, 200km from Paris final dinner and then it's seeing Alice, Rory, Flora-Jane and little Coco. I cannot wait!

RHC

Under our own steam once again

An amazing repair in th car park of our hotel last night.

We arrived knowing that despite having no oil pressure we hadn't damaged the engine. It was time to take off the sump and have a look!

First our magnificent sump guard had to come off, by no means a trivial task given it's weight and solidity. We had to jack the car up high so as to be able to get the sump out. We managed to borrow a large jack and put the front of the car on our axle stands.

Draining the oil was not an easy task but managed to get most of it into two jerry cans.

Finally off came the sump. Having removed the nuts and bolts we couldn't actually move the sump, being stuck on with the previous gasket. A couple of sharp taps and off she came.

The cause of our problems was immediately obvious. All the new pipework going from the oil pump to the new oil filter was shot. One of the pipes was sheered right through. There was absolutely no way it could be repaired without a very specialist spanner.

We were joined by Nigel. Gambier who simply put on his overalls, collected his spanners and set to helping brilliantly.

We decided to ignore the new oil filter and using the existing pipes fashion a new one to connect the oil pump direct to the oil outlet. We had the fittings for both ends but would have to cut two pipes so that the met in the middle and then find a way of connecting them. rubber pipes and jubilee clips was the agreed method but Boone had the right pipe A
and the support crews had all gone to bed. We had been joined by David Ayre who, after making some very disparaging remarks about the pipework, approved the plan.

We were joined by Charlie McGowan and Alex Howard offering incredibly kindly to help. Now the problems started because everyone had different ideas of the best way forward. Having broken the back of the problem we decOder to buy some new pipe in the morning. Fortunately David turned up and told us very forcibly that we wouldn't get any pipe and if we didn't f***ing get on with the previous idea we would be going home on a truck! At 02.30 we finally had the new parts cut and ready we just didn't have any way of connecting them.

Without any sleep I went off to find Peter Banham at 05.30 and found him as he was finishing breakfast.. Without a moments hesitation we were back by the car, Peter had the necessary pipe and we were putting her back together again.

She started first time, is leaking oil and we are nervous that our repair will blow under pressure but we are underway to Aix les Bain.

This trip is anything if not eventful!

RHC

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Working on getting the car started again

Arrived at the hotel in via Reggio at 7pm and started straight away on getting the sump guard and sump off. Its never as easy as it looks. Eventually off she came to reveaL that all the internal plumbing for the new oil filter had fallen apart! No wonder we had no oil pressure.

The problem is that the pipes (0.5" copper) were too thin. Either thicker copper or steal should have been fitted. The added problem is that to get to the bolts near the external filter needs a crows foot spanner which of course we haven't got. The only solution is to revert back to the origin plumbing using what pipe we have. We have worked most of the night to get it finished but couldn't find the right size pipe to connect he the existing pipes.

Tomorrow morning I will try and get what's required from the support crew. Fingers crossed, if of we will have to find something in via Reggio.

Then we will play catch up!

See you in Paris

RHC

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No oil pressure - we have a plan!

We managed to get to the ferry on time on the back of a truck and had a really good look at the problem with David Ayre. There is simply no oil pressure through the oil filter so we have to drop out the sump and have a look at the plumbing and the oil pump. Quite a big job.

With disaster comes good fortune. One of the other Lagonda's has a damaged gear box and a new one with a mechanic is currently on it's way to via Reggio. They also have a spare drive mechanism for the fuel pump.

We have arranged two trucks to get us to via Reggio and should if all goes according to plan be starting on the car at about 18.00 tonight. Fingers crossed that we can it fixed and be back in the rally tomorrow.

I am optimistic.

RHC

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Oh no not again - it's the truck of shame again .

We have had a bad day today. Firstly we lost all our oil pressure and decided to truck the car to the port of Igoumenitsa. We are now going to try to get the car to Viareggio and see what we can do. The next problem was my fault as I left two bags in a cafe outside the port and only realised 15 minutes before the ferry left. Luckily someone else had brought them on board for me. So we are on the ferry to Ancona and we will see what happens .

Carnage in Greece

87 cars started this morning from the original 97. of these 3 are second hand cars purchased along the route and 3 are replacement cars shipped in by their owners.

Today I hear a further six are on trucks, invoking our mates, Dom and Alex in car 39. They might have blown a piston.

It's never easy but as General Macarther said "we will return"

We get to the ferry, organise a garage in Ancona, and get her fixed. Then we catch up

RHC
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Loss of oil pressure

We have sadly lost our oil pressure so need a garage to discover why. James wisely spotted the issue before any damage was done to the engine. We will report in due course. Just waiting for a truck to take us to the ferry and then a garage in Italy.

We'll get it fixed!

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Climbing into the mountains

At least its stopped raining!

Driving in the pouring rain

Off to Italy!

We have left the fantastic Met hotel, Thessalonika, to drive to Igoumenitsa and catch a ferry to Ancona. It is pouring with rain, the wipers are on manual but we do have lights.

We are hurtling along at 80kmph with a stopping distance of , I estimate, a couple of miles!

The route is either direct on the motorway which will take 3 hours or over the mountains which in these conditions is Antibes guess. At 66km we need to make a decision.

Both of us got an early night and a fantastic nights sleep unlike a dedicated team who once again lead by Dom crawled in at about 3am! Thank the lord that I chickened out as we were getting into the taxi!

If we take the mountain route we visit the monasteries of Meteora a truly unbelievable sight. However in this rain it might all be a washout.

RHC

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After a poor lunch by the sea

Still smiling!

Thessalonika

A gentle journey to the Turkish border this morning/ sadly we missed the most entertaining moment of the day when Alstair Caudwell tried to drive his Alpha up the hard shoulder, jumping the queue. Scott and Paddy stood in in his way and told him in very personal terms what they thought of him and that he should return to his rightfully place in the queue. Alistair told Scott that his lack of initiative was why be would never make anything of his
Life! At which point Sess came across and gave Alistair a verbal lashing the likes of which has not been heard on this tour before. What excitement
RHc

Otheqise evrything is gooiv

Other

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Into Europe!

Having had a somewhat depressing day with the car and the weather yesterday today things turned around dramatically. Although not a competitive day today, transiting 340km from one side of Istanbul to the other, the car was humming along beautifully. There really is something very satisfying knowing that the work done yesterday afternoon made a difference. I haven't a clue which bit of the work done worked but something has clearly changed. We have power on the hills and smooth running at speed, none of which we had yesterday.

The Lagonda's in general have had a very tough rally. Ours seized on day 1, Chis Lunn's has been on a transporter for the last week but has returned to the rally today, Nigel Gambier's is on a truck to Istanbul having lost all it's oil pressure (I'm sure that they will get it fixed), the Dutch Lagonda has gone home, a Swiss Lagonda was on a truck in the Stan's but is back with us, leaving I believe only one Lagonda (an LG45) which hasn't been trucked yet!

We crossed over the Bosphorous moving from Asia into Europe, an incredibly satisfying moment.

On arrival at the Klasis Resort Hotel we managed to repair the sunroof, find a welder to repair the headlight bracket, organise an oil change and find some Radweld to repair the radiator, all on a Sunday. If the radiator fix doesn't work we have been told to throw in an egg white!

They said at the beginning that a small minority of teams soak up all the support resources and you really notice it upon arrival at hotel car parks. Some teams are totally self reliant whist others cannot put engine oil in for themselves! James and I have been pretty self reliant, asking advice but more often than not getting on and doing the repair ourselves. There are 200 odd, very strong willed
people here and we're not all going to get on all the time, particularly with different nationalities approaches to queuing!

James is now off to have his hair cut. I think that I will wait until Italy, the choice between and Italian or a Turkish barber is, I believe, a straightforward one.

Tonight out delightful Turkish hosts, the Turkish Motor Federation, is hosting a cocktail party by the pool so it off there for a couple of beverages.

Tomorrow we travel a couple of hundred km to the border with Greece and then we really are into Europe. It's a long day tomorrow in terms of mileage and time trials but thereafter the days seem to be reasonable. 2700km to go, keep everything crossed.

RHC

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Crossing the Bosporus

A fabulous sunny day after four days of rain and an easy 345 kms as we finally hit Europe. We crossed the Bosporus at lunchtime and would have blown our horn in delight if we had one to blow. Now we are in Europe we need to have working lights, wipers, number plates, indicators and horns none of which we have.I wonder how quickly our remaining cash will get used up in fines.Istanbul will have to wait for another time as we had work to do on the car on arrival at Silivri . Ham has definitely lost weight and looks positively ten years younger. Tomorrow we drive to the Greek border and can't wait to see what gifts they have for us. No other excitements and I am off for a Turkish haircut.  

Abant lake - Whose voting for Christmas ?

Turkey is colder than we thought in fact it's snowing. We had a slow day with a real lack of power today. So as we travel past Istanbul tomorrow we. Will know how bad things are. There is much merriment tonight as everyone is getting excited about reaching Eutope. Beer, wine and vodka are much  in evidence.hotel has just hosted the Turkish Socialist party conference and we have replaced them. I am not a big bath man but I had my first bath in 30 days tonight. Norman Wisdom is dead .

To Abant lake

The merry group of misfits left Yozgat at 7.30am to rejoin the rally at Abant lake. We took the direct route on the motorway missing all today's time trials taking us past Anakara.

The car struggled to start but eventually after considerable coxing fired up. The morning was cold but at least dry. That was not to last!

North of Ankara as we reached 1500m it began to snow and we were getting ice on the windscreen. This was not what I was expecting and certainly not what the car enjoyed. We had very limited power particularly on the hills and we are really having to stay on the ball to keep her in 4th. There is so much for the driver to have to think about without worrying about power on the hills. We struggled on all day accompanied loyally by car 39, Alex and Dom, who knew, as we were all off the official route we had no support if something went wrong. The car finally came to a halt in the carpark outside our hotel! Someone was looking after us.

Beer and a sandwich (must keep everything in perspective) was followed by a complete cleanup of the electrics. Cleaned the distributor, changed the rotor arm, removed the filter and found that the lead to the condensor was dirty and loose, cleaned all the spark plug cables (found that a couple were very loose) and ensured that no damp can get into them. All in all a pretty thorough job and she started first. We won't really know whether we have cured the problems until tomorrow but fingers crossed.

And then I spotted that the weld repairing the headlight brackets has snapped. I shall consult Peter Banham the evening. There's always something going on.

This time next week, fingers crossed, James and I will be in Paris. Just 3000km to go now. Mustn't count out chickens!

RHC

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What a day!

We were set the task of driving 730km today in solid rain through mountain passes upto 2300m with 2 time trials. By 8pm this evening only 12cars had arrived at the nominated 'dry' hotel!

As I suggested last might we had developed A cunning plan. Led by Paddy Walker of the now famous 'Paddy Tours' we decide to a. Not do the time trials and b. Go to an entirely different hotel. What a fantastic decision!

It rained all day, not stopping for a moment. Very, very tiring.

I did awake at one point (when I was navigating rather than driving) to find that we were travelling at >100kmph in driving rain, worn tires (we have done >10000km) and 1934 brakes. Not ideal for your blood pressure! The only response I got was 'yes but the road is fantastic' - true in a DBS bit not a Lagonda.

We avoided a route which resulted in numerous crews being absolutely terrified and one crashing. In the meantime another couple of cars crashed on the main road. Mayhem in all directions. We kept resolutely out of all the problems and arrived at 4.30pm this afternoon. About 15 cars joined us and we have had a very jolly evening. More cars are expected to join is over the next few hours.

Tomorrow we have to do 50km on excellent roads against the official route of 50km on tracks! Then it's off up the motorway to our hotel.

All is well with car and tomorrow we will be near Istanbul.

RHC

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A band of renegades in Yozgat.

I think we were worried about the route and so about ten cars went off piste and chose to take the main roads to a place called Yozgat. We are staying at a huge hotel that is completely empty apart from us. A really long day today and it rained all day. Driving now takes three hands , one to steer the car, one to hold fourth gear in place and one to manually use the wipers - so quite a feat when you are driving 660kms. Turkey is proving expensive on fuel but otherwise just very wet. It looks like there has been a lot carnage today rumours and retirements are rife and us merry band of renegades are just happy to be here.

Out of Iran and into Turkey

James and I left early at 05.45am to try and get ahead of the pack for the border crossing from Iran. We had a lovely 300km run on excellent roads to the border. Only one mishap when, just as I said "this Lagonda was made for these conditions" the engine started misfiring! Luckily it was very quickly fixed and the rest of the journey was fault free.

Which cannot be said for the border crossing. We were car 7 at the border and first we joined one queue then were told that we were meant to be in another, then we were back to the first one! In the meantime, even with only 7 cars being in the customs area people cannot hall trying to push in, one car reversing into another - unbelievable. James and I were reasonably calm at this stage. Then the organiser, Philip Young, directed one of the cars to reverse into another one - even more unbelievable.

The cars at this stage were in a queue and noons, irrespective of whether they had the completed paperwork, could move until the car in front moved. It took James and I to organise everyone in order of the cars in the queue and finally things began to move.

Then onto the Turkey side which was even worse. We got our visa stamp, we then went and got the stamp, stamped. Then I needed a stamp for the car which be quad of the traffic when I went to get my visa, was still the other side of the boxer gate. I was able to get the vehicle stamp until the car as the right side of the gate. Well this simply wasn't going to be allowed to happen and the customs man recognised as my volume increased by the second, that this was not a battle he wanted to have and g e me a stamp. In the event it was less than 2 hours which in relative terms was a result.

We had an excellent run to the hotel. Off on 700km run tomorrow. We might try and cut some of it out. We are working on a cunning plan.

RHC
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Beards,stone throwing and beer

Today we moved towards the last leg of our journey.that means we drove 300 kms to the Iranian border spent a mere 2 hours there and then carried on for another 300 to get to Erzerum. Very happy with the hotel as they did my washing in no time at all. Beer for the first time in 3 days and I think there will be merriment tonight. I liked Iran although I may be alone in that view. Great roads and very enthusiastic people. Turkey does not feel a lot different but I am sure it will get more European the further west we travel. It is nice to have mobile coverage again although the petrol prices are simply astronomical. Beards are disappearing fast on the rally - my second effort is not much more than a light covering of wispiness. Here's hoping by Paris it might look like one. Stone throwing is becoming an epidemic over the last three or four days. Normally young boys are the culprits and open top cars their victims - pity really as it colours peoples views of a country. Ham is finally solid and our only problem with the car is fourth gear popping out involuntarily. So we bash on tomorrow with a prospective 700 kms to travel. Hotel is comfortable and as I said earlier will probably get a right seeing to tonight.

An extraordinary evening

Arrived at our rather smart hotel in Iran after an amazing drive form -80m to 2300m altitude. The car doesn't really enjoy the long hard pulls at altitude but not many of the old cars do. It's always coming down which is hairier than going up.

Having got the lights working at last (result!) I was informed tat we asked to attend a presentation and dinner with the vice president of Iran! We arrived and waited and waited to be finally told that the vp wasn't able to make it but that his deputy had come. This was followed by 45 minutes of mutually congratulating speeches by various officials and a 'banquet'. James was the first to slip out followed by about a dozen others including myself. They missed how tired and hungry we all were.

Very strange evening.

Off to Turkey tomorrow, then we will really feel on our way home.

RHC
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Tabriz and the Vice President

Awesome day today. We replaced baldy the wheel with a spare, we managed to get the wipers to work manually and now we have not one bit two headlamps. It rained aggressively as we set off to start a 40 km climb mainly in first gear. That took most of the morning but as we crested the top the sun came out and the most fantastic sweeping roads appeared before us. Perfect for an Aston Martin or some such.We saw stunning scenery and had a great afternoon. Arrived at the hotel to be told we were going with the Iranian car club to meet the Vice President of Iran. I Imagine It must be like an Iranian rally going through the UK to  be told they were meeting John Prescott. Anyhow tomorrow we are driving 300km to the Turkish border and then another 300km to Erzerum. Sounds like an early start.

Tabriz

An extraordinary days driving today through the mountains. James started driving in miserable conditions, raining and mist with manual wipers! Better than mo wipers. We started with a hill climb of approximate 40km winding through a forest. Very steep and slippery, not what a heavy old girl like ours enjoys.

As soon as we hit the summit we were faced with clear blue skies and a beautiful run through the mountains to Tabriz.

Arrived safe and sound 16.30.

RHC

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Driving in Mongolia - like nowhere else on earth

 

Buster Merryweather! Don't panic its all gone

 

Update from Iran

Updates are I’m afraid as rare as access to WiFi which isn’t that frequent and comes after any work required on the car or our tummies (in every sense of the words!)

 

We had a couple of very hot days travelling across Turkmenistan. There are more policemen in Turkmenistan than civilians as far as I could make out. There was absolutely no chance of getting lost since at every junction there was an officer of some kind waving us on. The first day we went through the border to Turkmenabat. Sadly I went down with a dose of d&v, not ideal when sitting in an old car, on appalling roads in 40C. The second day we drove 630km to Ashquabat on the Iranian border. Both days consisted of mile after mile of nothing! Ashquabat is extradordinary, all new buildings made of white marble and new roads, but most of the buildings are empty. The old adage of “build it and they will come” hasn’t quite happened. Sadly I arrived, showered and went to bed of 12 hours. James did try the nightlife but it was fairly quiet.

 

Then off to Iran. The border crossing wasn’t going to be that bad and then all the competitors got involved. The problem of having some 300 very strong willed people all trying to get the same thing. One competitor jumped the line but his co-drivers visa was invalid so everything ground to a halt. Other competitors positioned their cars for a quick exit and blocked in cars whose drivers were able to enter Iran. The whole thing was chaos. James And I were lucky to have left early and been towards the front of the line however we were then blocked in for nearly 2 hours. We had a long drive ahead of us to Gorgan a distance of 510km and we didn’t want to drive it in the dark if possible. It was a fantastic entry into Iran where we were met to great fanfare by the Classic car club of Iran, a delightful team who gave us definitely the best welcome we have received. Then we travelled through beautiful mountains on perfect roads, just what the Lagonda was built for and she didn’t let us down. We didn’t have enough time to complete the journey in daylight and the last hour or so was fairly hairy since the locals often don’t put any lights on at all and the motorcycles are deadly weaving in and out and all around you. Some drivers sensed hostility but we just felt they were slightly mad.

 

Eventually we arrived at our Hotel in Gorgan to be told that the President was visiting Gorgan and had decreed that not westerners were to be allowed to sleep in any hotel. So  despite there being rooms, we weren’t going to be allowed to occupy them! As more and more cars arrived, and teams got more and more tired and dirty people began to get cross, surprisingly not James or I! The first initiative was to occupy the roof and various tents were erected on the roof. We held out, desperate for a shower! Eventually we were allowed to out 5 people per room, and squeezed 6 in to get everyone settled for the nikght. Lots of grumbles as you can imagine but we got a good shower and a good sleep so no complaints from us.

 

Today we left early to drive 630km to beyond Rasht to stay on the Caspian. It was driving through miles and miles of the very worst of Blackpool or Skegee but fascinating none the less. The last hour or so was in the rain, not ideal conditions for an old car with tired tyres, poor windscreen wipers and poor lights. Anyway we made it, even after I confessed to being somewhat nervous of James approach of driving like the locals!

 

This is such a schizophrenic country, such charm and kindness by so many off set by thievery and brutish behaviour by others. I have no doubt that the former is the natural state of the Iranian citizen.

 

I’m having some problems getting my photos onto the pc at the moment so I have posted some earlier ones to keep you amused

 

Off up into the mountains tomorrow to Tabriz and then into Turkey. One feels really on the way home when we get to Turkey. Long days but everyone bring us closer to home and the ones we love.

 

RHC

 

 

The Caspian sea

Today we had rain for the first time.Quite a challenge for us as we careered through Iran.No wipers,one headlight,a bald front tyre and a leaking roof. We drove alongside the Caspian sea all day and yet hardly got a glimpse of it.some of the towns we passed through were a bit like Shepherds Bush. Plenty of buildings but not much style and plenty of people milling around. Everywhere in Iran we have been overwhelmed by people's interest and enthusiasm in us and the cars,mostly friendly and this has been accompanied by some spectacular driving. Last night we arrived at Gorgan a pity really as the President had done the very same. It meant a decree had gone out that banned Westerners from any hotel in the vicinity. Not good for us as we were all exhausted after another day of crossing borders and then having to drive 600 kms.eventually the hotel we were meant to stay at released some rooms and it was six to a room and the floor. Quite comfy in the end. The gossip on the rally is a bit like a constantly moving Coronation street episode. The  gossip is sadly too sensitive for this blog but it is endless and fascinating. Ham has recovered from his travails and feels a little more solid today which is nice. So two
more days in Iran and then we get to Turkey. I plan to have swim in the sea tomorrow and clean some of the filth off.  

Samarkand

A good night out in Samarkand. Out for a local dinner and then onto a club with hip hop dancing small people and belly dancers. A few beers and Uzbeck vodka made for an entertaining evening

A rest day in Samarkand a really beautiful and important City on the Silk Road. James wasn't feeling particularly well this morning but we battled out site seeing. The
Madrassar's are spectacular, the city clean and the locals friendly. It's been a very nice relaxing day. We both decided to do nothing to the car. She's running and let's just hope she continues.

Tomorrow is entirely different. The border crossing into Turkmenistan is going to be testing to say the least. 360km to the border, 40km on the other side into what might be a seriously weird country. Petrol seems to be the problem here in Samarkand let's hope that we can get some tomorrow!

All's well and we motor on.

RHC
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Update

Well here ware at the end of out second day on the rally on the middle of Mongolia it was a he'll of a day travelling over what at home woe be considered bAd farm tracks.

The day started badly with James reversing into a local mini bus! A small contribution towards the chaps repairs seems to have recovered the position . Sadly we can no loner open the boot. In the boot reside the spandex and socket set and the 40lts of. Spare fuel which we can no longer get at. We set off well ahead of of due time and then goodness that we did.

We travelled over some of the worst roads that I have come across but made camp before sunset.

It wax a he'll of a day.

Tomorrow is the key. We have blown up in the past at approximate 800 miles and we will be approaching it tomorrow. I feel pretty confident. Our temperature is low, our oil pressure is where we expect so I hope that we will be fine.

Fun night in the mess tent this evening. James is now snoring about 10m away. I think ghat I will sleep

Rhc

is low.

Sent from my iPhone.

Tashkent

We left Shumkent this morming for a 300km drive to Tashkent including another longdrawn out border crossing.

The drive went perfectly, even to the extent that we aren't using so much oil. About 3pm this morning I woke up thinking about the sump bolts (how my life has changed!) and perhaps the bottom half of the engine being the source of the oil leaks rather than the top half.

James and I sat next to Dom at breakfast who ate a plate of cold lentils, cold carrot and a congealed fried egg on top. We didn't have much breakfast after that.

The border crossing was the usual example of demented bureaucracy. Hours of waiting followed by hours of shuffling forms about and then we were in Uzbekistan!

Our navigation skills are getting better and better and we arrived at the front door of the Intercontinental. Another time change moves us an hour closer to home and comfortingly an hour closer to everyone.

James booked us in whilst I got under the car for an hour or so. The web team interviews us to camera so look out everyone.

I have just washed and brushed up and I have lost a half a stone!
absolutely marvellous! James claimed to have lot nearer a stone but after independent evaluation it has been agreed that he has lost the same as I.

19 days of sunshine so far which has made the journey so much easier to cope with.

RHC
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Fingernails

Everyone on this rally has 20 days worth of revolting fingernails . We are off to the bazaar to do some shopping and see if we can clean our nails. The comedy beard is being regrown and thanks to the food the weight is falling off us both . We may be on the www.pekingparis.com website tonight being interviewed.
Otherwise the people on the rally are proving to be tremendous value , we have all types - the serious competitors,the keep ourselves to ourselves and the rest - we are off to party in Tashkent tonight and hope to have tales of its pleasures for tomorrow.

Day 19

729km from Almaty to Shymkent. A very long way

We left at 06.30 with a degree of trepidation. We were getting oily deposits on the windscreen which worried me having spent hours sorting out the oil leaks. James got it spot on, identifying the liquid as coolant from the radiator rather than oil. What a relief! The coolant is being ejected because we have removed the header tank. It's never easy is it?

It has taken 19 days but today we had a totally faultless day! What a joy and a relief. Car burning a bit of oil but nothing that cannot be dealt with.

In 700+ km we stopped for two pee's. The second was unbeknownst to us directly under the Japanese fm crew! You could not believe it. I hope it doesn't make the final cut.

Tomorrow it's 250km to Tashkent. God only knows how the border crossing will go. We have been told that there are fuel issues in Uzbeckistan but only time will tell.

A good day all round.

RHC

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pictures

 

2 days in Ulan Baatar

We’ve arrived ahead of the rally but there is no sign of the car! James and I were shown around by Dolia, the mother of Rex’s room mate at school – how strange is that! We visited the garage to make sure we are booked in. A really frustrating day being unable to do anything until we have a car to work on.

 

The following day all the cars have arrived and are being worked on but no sign of ours!. Speaking to the agents they have notified the police and have no idea where the car is. This is unbelievably frustrating. Eventually at around 12.30 I’m informed that the car has arrived so we go down to the garage- not really surprising but there still isn’t a car there.

 

At around 1.30 the truck arrives – no apologies or explanations! Car off truck and into the garage a quick review from one of the organisers mechanics and its clear that the heads got to come off the engine so that we can find out what has happened. Unfortunately all the garages engineers are working on other cars so its down to James and I to get started.

 

Its never easy is it? James got an unstoppable nose bleed which although soldiering on gallantly would not stop. Suddenly a nurse was called and Dolia turned up and James was off to hospital. Car 66 is at this stage really struggling to rise from the dead.

 

A string of bad luck will always turn eventually and the first turning point was Ronaldo coming to help me. He stayed with me until the job was done. The second critical event was the arrival of David Ayre, one of the worlds leading lagonda engineers and a competitor. David knew exactly what the problem was, what the solution was and I very fortuitously had all the spares to replace the 6^th piston. Without David’s help exactly the same thing would have happened again.

 

With David’s input and hands on help rebuilding the car we really have a chance to get back into the rally. It was an unbelievably intense day with fantastic help and support from all sorts of people.

 

RHC

Day 2

There is probably nothing more depressing than the day after blowing up on the first day of the rally. The rally departed for the Mongolian border at Erenhot on the Chinese border. James, Kurt and I were in the local taxi heading for the border. The car had not shock absorbers and no back seat, only a piece of carpet. A 7 day drive was not particularly pleasant, although we tried to make the most of it.

 

The Lagonda should meet us at Erenhot. Fortunately it does!

 

James and I are very pissed off not to be in the middle of the action, but are determined to get back into the rally. Our biggest concern is not knowing what has caused the seizure if we have an answer to that then we can re build the engine

 

I have organised a truck to collect the car on the other side of the border and for James, Kurt and I to be whistled north to Ulan Baatar. We should be there at least 12-24 hours ahead to the rally and can really get stuck in.

 

RHC

The nightmare start

Who could have believed that after such a short distance we would be broken down on the side of a Chinese motorway outside Beijing. Once more the 6^th piston had seized, only this time it wasn’t six miles from the garage! We pushed the old girl to safety and were then towed by one of the support crews to a filling station where we were joined by James one of the slightly odd local “guides”. I wanted to go back to Beijing but we weren’t allowed to. All the cars that entered China had to leave into Mongolia, through the designated border crossing and at the designated time. So the car was collected by a truck which we were told would meet us at the border. Just to make sure the “guide” took the drivers ID card. James and I were then driven in the guides car to the first hotel stop at Daihai. Sadly we were not the only ones in trouble so early with one of the Bentley’s in trouble with a broken clutch and Tim Scott’s FN motorbike also struggling .

 

One of the most depressing arrivals that first night. Everyone with tales to tell except car 66!

 

The picture shows just how calm James can be during stressful times.

 

RHC

The vissicitudes of life.

We are back on blog and on track with the rally after a very difficult start.

Where have we been – pretty well everywhere !

 

We rejoined the rally in Ulaan Baatar having fixed our seized piston and for that we need to

thank our fellow competitor David Ayre. Gingerly at first and then with more confidence we

Set off into the Mongolian desert. Awesome scenery and crazy rutted,potholed tracks made for

Long and tiring days driving upwards of 350kms and often taking twelve hours to do it.

Here are the different days driving we have had.

 

Ulaan Baatar to Kharkhorin 362km and then an evening of yurting –

Kharkhorin to Tariat  327kms and then our first night of camping – Freezing at night.

Tariat to Uliastai 336kms and even colder night of tenting – Ice in the tents in the morning.

Uliastai to Teel river 253kms – No tarmac at all just one long pothole.

Teel River to Khovd 177kms – Fabulous campsite and not so cold.

Khovd to the Russian border – 310kms – our first hotel for 6 nights – fab !

Border to Belokurikha – 581kms – Disgusting hotel , truly disgusting .

Belokurikha to border and the Semey – 548kms.

Semey to Usharal  580kms – camping again – dreadful but fortified by vodka.

Usharal to Almaty  551kms.- Oh joy an Intercontinental hotel and two days of rest.

 

So the last two weeks have seen us travel through Mongolia and into Russia for a couple of days and then

Through into Kazakhstan. Tomorrow we leave on a mere 729km journey that will get us close to the border

With Uzbekistan.Two days rest has been much needed but we spent the first day fixing the car with all its

Problems and that took just under 12 hours.

 

The car –

 Everyday something has gone wrong or fallen off or just disintegrated and it’s not just us, pretty well

Everyone is missing bits and pieces from their cars. I reversed the car into a van quite early on in  Mongolia and

That meant the boot was staved in and unable to be opened , a pity as that is where our reserve fuel tank is.

We lost part of our roof.We lost half our fuse box so no headlamps , another pity as we had a 20 hour journey into

Russia with 6 of them in darkness.

We have had oil leaking from pretty well every part of the engine and then spotted a fractured oil pipe.

None of these little troubles have stopped us having to laugh at adversity – it’s all part of the game.

 

Border crossings – How to learn about patience and then learn some more. We spent just under 8 hours crossing from Mongolia into Russia , not helped by the border guards having a decent one and a half hour lunch break. Crossing into Kazakhstan was a piece of cake , just 4 hours was all it took. Interminable paperwork and lots of men in different hats compounding the issue.

 

Comedy beards – We’ve both got them.  

 

So we are now packing up and readying to leave the civilised , air conditioned comfort of the Intercontinental for another heavy duty day of rallying. Thus far we have had an incredible time. Fellow competitors are on the whole great fun and terribly helpful. We have seen some fabulous scenery and Ham and I are definitely losing weight.

 

A number of cars have gone from the rally , some people have gone out and bought replacements but are not certain if they can get them through the borders to come. One pair saw their car catch fire and just melt in front of their eyes.

Another pair have the interesting experience of one of them marrying the other one’s ex wife – wonder what they talk about ! So the peloton rolls on and we are ready for another long long day tomorrow , still talking and still not listening to each other.

 

Big dipper

Today has been like the big dipper, huge. Ups and downs.

Despite our car being expected yesterday it only arrived at midday today. All the mechanics were engaged with other cars so I did have a car bit I didn't have any help. I felt that I had been triaged, and that fate had self us too many blows. Rob one of the UK mechanics had a look and told me that the head had to come off and we had to look at piston no 6.

Never accept death just because you feel that you have been given up on. James and I started to vet the head off the engine. Sadly James developed a bad nose bleed and despite continuing regardless of blood going everywhere he was suddenly facing a nurse who had been called. Then he was off to hospital.........

Help came in the form of Ronaldo a short charming Philopino who worked like a Trojan until he job was done. We carried on preparing to get the head off bit that would only identify the problem. At that moment David Ayre arrived, driving car no1 and one of the worlds leading Lagonda experts. Suddenly it struck me that this dead car had a chance at life again. Off came the head, off came the sump and all was revealed. Piston no six. The gudgeon pin had, due to too litle tolerance being allowed had effectively welded itsself to the gudgeon pin and the con rod was solid. I had brought all the necessary spare parts so off we went. The piston was replaced with David's tolerances. The head went back on and David reset the rockers. Everything else went back together with Ronldo and his mates. Perhaps there really was a chance for us. Pizza arrives and on we went.

We were ready to start the engine. By this time James was in a Mongolian hospital and I had been doing a proper job for about 7 hours solidly.

Rheims girl started third time and ran like a dream. Would she pass the nail test (ask Alice)? Well I think that she did. It wasn't a text book build bit it was pragmatic. James returned not bleeding which by that time had become my biggest concern. If we had a car but James couldn't come we would have to wait.

By 11.30 tonight we had a car, we have a team and we were back at the hotel having a beer. It is totally humbling to consider the generosity of others in an event like this.

There are no guarantees but we have done all that we could of. I'm knackered and I'm off to try and get the il out from under my fingernails

WE'RE. BACK - for how long time will tell

RHC
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BACK ON SCHEDULE

I have just spoken to James and Richard and the THRILLING news is THE CAR IS UP AND RUNNING and will be heading out with the rest of the pack at 8am tomorrow (Wednesday 15th Sept). In a pristine Mercedes garage in the middle of Ulaan Baatar with the skills of a fellow competitor - David Ayres (No 2 Car in the P2P Rally) who just happens to be a Lagonda expert (what luck!) together with the necessary spare parts that Richard had had the foresight to pack - they are BACK IN BUSINESS. 

Three cheers for David and a big thank you to Mr and Mrs Billy Tumur who are locals in UB for helping out our stranded drivers. 

Anyway pistons ready and the boys are off first thing tomorrow to Kharkhorin. 

Keep checking the blog - the sky tag should also be up and running tomorrow.

Caron 

Troubles ahead

This is the most frustrating moment of all. 30 hrs after last seeing the car on the truck it has disappeared! Various contrary reports but the bottom line seems to be that the truck has broken down and it won't arrive for hours. There is no hope of repairing the car in time unless we have it to repair. I don't often get cross but the frustration of it all is really getting to me now!

I will report in due course.

RHC

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QUE JE SURMONT (that which I may overcome)

Car and drivers are on their way to Ulaan Baatar - sadly not under their own steam!

Hoping to get the car fixed in the next two days.

Hot, tired and frustrated but STILL A TEAM!

Caron 

Leaving the hotel

It's 5am and I didn't go to bed quite as early as originally intended! A few beers with some of the other cars and then a final "ice cold beer" with Hugo. I wouldn't have slept if I had so no real problem.

We are leaving at 6 for the Great Wall with various other like minded competitors and should be there in plenty of time for our start time of 8.33am.

Funnily enough I think that we both feel pretty relaxed. James went to bed early but he can sleep irrespective of comfort or time, as we will no doubt demonstrate over the next 36 days.

Roll on Paris! I think perhaps I will just focus on getting the 60km to the start first. One step at a time. James is driving to the Start and then I will take the first leg.

RHC

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Nearly off - the grand reception

Well there are some pretty large butterfly flying around inside my tummy! We are off tomorrow morning, leaving the hotel in Beijing at 6am for the start which is 60km away on the Great Wall of China. I feel that Car 66’s crew is as ready as we will ever be. Our start time is 08.33am – what a moment!

 

Yesterday I was delighted that the car started and that we found the hotel seamlessly. Big smile for the rest of the day. Now the enormity of what is ahead of us has once again come home to roost.

 

Last night on our return from dinner we were asked by concerned staff whether there was oil leaking from the car which as you can imagine worried me not inconsiderably. Fortunately it was just water from when I opened the radiator so nothing to worry about. Unlike one of our neighbours today who managed to drive straight over his own 2ltr can of oil spreading it everywhere!!!

 

James and I have repacked the car, fitted a cargo net and discarded various items no longer deemed necessary. We then cruised through scrutineering, checking the car, our paperwork and our medical situation. One very grumbly American complaining that we “had already produced all the paperwork, why do we have to do it again!” Then a three hour briefing which was similar to our pre-rally briefing, including all the same slides.

 

I am repacking my bag so that everything I don’t need for the next couple of nights can stay in the car. I found a sweet letter from home which made me feel very missed and supported.

 

Now it’s off to the grand reception and the start tomorrow! Fingers crossed everyone!

 

RHC

 

Good morning followers.

Thursday morning here in Beijing and it’s scrutineering time.

Recovering from a minor session last night with two S Africans and

Two Americans – guess who spilt red wine everywhere ?

 

Car started beautifully this morning and no oil underneath the car.

Overcast and frankly sweaty weather but we are raring to go.

An awesome array of motor cars lined up in the hotel carpark.

Every type imagineable.

 

Love and kisses to my beautiful wife on this our 16^th wedding anniversary.

Caron darling , happy wedding anniversary, hope the flowers arrive !

 

James

Update

After a very encouraging start from the warehouse we watched the other cars coming in. Some as smooth as silk some struggling somewhat. After dinner in a local restaurant we came back to find the hotel staff worrying about the amount of fluid coming out of the car. I had a look with the torch and couldn’t see anything. We will have to have a look tomorrow morning. There are teams with much greater problems than ours. I’m sure it’s a bit of oil leaking from the manifold but we will see tomorrow.

 

RHC

Collecting the cars

Off to the warehouse about 35km from the hotel in busses. Beautifully organised so that bus 1 was full of the teams of cars nearest the exit. Sadly bus 1 was the last to arrive at the warehouse. “Best laid plans of mice and men”. Everyone very anxious to see if their cars would start........

 

Delighted to report that our Lagonda started first time! Then off, following the route map to the petrol station. You can imagine the chaos. 150 odd cars turning up at a Beijing petrol station to refuel. A few ran out of fuel on the way to the petrol station. I drove to the petrol and James to the hotel. There was a degree of carnage on the way with all sorts of cars in trouble but I am delighted to report that we managed to get there absolutely fault (engineering wise and navigation wise) free.   

 

There is a collection of beautiful cars in the hotel car park and in amongst them I am proud to say is ours!

 

A good start but a long, long way to go.

 

RHC

Going to the docks.

Wednesday morning and we are at last about to get rally serious.

Quick Chinese driving licence session followed by a coach journey to the docks

Where we all start to get real and pick up the cars.

Have now met some S Africans who decided a fridge for beers was more important than

A set of torque wrenches.Some West country folk who we will not be having breakfast with again,

And plenty of others keen on bonhomie.

Weather smoggy with the odd patch of blue sky.

So off we jolly well go.

Rumours and misinformation

Last night whilst “blowing the froth off a few tinnies” James heard that some 6 cars didn’t start out of their crates and some of them sounded so bad they were switched off immediately. I didn’t sleep well.

 

At 08.45 this morning my phone rang with James telling me that there was a rally breakfast which finishes at 09.00am. I’d never heard of it and certainly wasn’t told. It appears on no instructions anywhere! What else have I missed? I’m feeling tired and cross and we haven’t got the cars yet!

 

The only answer to rumours and misinformation is honestly and transparency. Fortunately whilst collecting my fried eggs there was a guy from CarsUK, the shipping agents, in front of me so I asked him how it had all gone. All the cars from the UK started fine and are running smoothly – no problems. A few cars from the US had flat batteries but that was all. Relief!

 

Driving licences and Chinese number plates collection at 11.00 and then off to the port to collect the cars. 35km back to the hotel which will be very challenging to find and even harder to get the hang of Beijing traffic. Judicious use of the horn and lights is quite clearly required. This could be a tale told for many years by the fireside. “Oh no not Grandpa telling us about driving in Beijing again” I can hear my grandchildren say.

 

RHC

 

 

Beijing

A days site seeing in hot, smoggy, humid Beijing.

 

We got dropped off at Wangfujing for James to buy a camera and dark glasses which we achieved relatively successfully. HeJames and I were guided around the Forbidden City by “Richard” who was a little difficult to understand. I persisted, James left me to it. Enormous palace with pavilion after pavilion. The Emperor made the paving 7m thick as he was convinced his subjects would tunnel in.

 

Then a quick beer and a visit to Tianenman Square which is enormous.

 

James then managed yet another sleep in the taxi back to the hotel. Few challenges getting the taxi driver to understand where we wanted to go but got there in the end.

 

RHC

Days of wine and roses.

/Well  not quite but Ham and I did share a bottle of Chinese red last night. Probably not

Something we plan to repeat.

Today we went walkabout in Beijing. Wow what a walkabout – we seemed to be walking for ever and getting

Nowhere. Lucky we are both so fit !

We started in a tourist trap to buy a camera for me and then a charming Chairman Mao watch. Then some culture.

The forbidden palace and a crazy guide called Richard was our highlight. I think the trick is to pick a guide who speaks good English ours didn’t. In fact he was a menace and I am happy to admit I left him to get on with it with Ham.

We learnt a lot about numbers – odd numbers are the male side of life and 25 is also very important. Can you guess why ? 1,3,5,7,9.The palace was fascinating and yet strangely free of anything remotely tangible other than a mass of buildings.

Tiannamen Square was big and surrounded by thieving taxi drivers so we enjoyed both and finally got back to the hotel in the late afternoon .Next up was meeting some of our fellow competitors, which waqs great for both of us ,l except we just cannot remember anyones name. Is it Ahmed from Turkey or Terry from Ahmabad ? Tonight we have agreed to roam the city with Chris and his co-driver . What his name is remains a mystery.

Physically we are both well although I have some slight chafing in a nasty place 

Days of wine and roses.

/Well  not quite but Ham and I did share a bottle of Chinese red last night. Probably not

Something we plan to repeat.

Today we went walkabout in Beijing. Wow what a walkabout – we seemed to be walking for ever and getting

Nowhere. Lucky we are both so fit !

We started in a tourist trap to buy a camera for me and then a charming Chairman Mao watch. Then some culture.

The forbidden palace and a crazy guide called Richard was our highlight. I think the trick is to pick a guide who speaks good English ours didn’t. In fact he was a menace and I am happy to admit I left him to get on with it with Ham.

We learnt a lot about numbers – odd numbers are the male side of life and 25 is also very important. Can you guess why ? 1,3,5,7,9.The palace was fascinating and yet strangely free of anything remotely tangible other than a mass of buildings.

Tiannamen Square was big and surrounded by thieving taxi drivers so we enjoyed both and finally got back to the hotel in the late afternoon .Next up was meeting some of our fellow competitors, which waqs great for both of us ,l except we just cannot remember anyones name. Is it Ahmed from Turkey or Terry from Ahmabad ? Tonight we have agreed to roam the city with Chris and his co-driver . What his name is remains a mystery.

Physically we are both well although I have some slight chafing in a nasty place 

Days of wine and roses.

/Well  not quite but Ham and I did share a bottle of Chinese red last night. Probably not

Something we plan to repeat.

Today we went walkabout in Beijing. Wow what a walkabout – we seemed to be walking for ever and getting

Nowhere. Lucky we are both so fit !

We started in a tourist trap to buy a camera for me and then a charming Chairman Mao watch. Then some culture.

The forbidden palace and a crazy guide called Richard was our highlight. I think the trick is to pick a guide who speaks good English ours didn’t. In fact he was a menace and I am happy to admit I left him to get on with it with Ham.

We learnt a lot about numbers – odd numbers are the male side of life and 25 is also very important. Can you guess why ? 1,3,5,7,9.The palace was fascinating and yet strangely free of anything remotely tangible other than a mass of buildings.

Tiannamen Square was big and surrounded by thieving taxi drivers so we enjoyed both and finally got back to the hotel in the late afternoon .Next up was meeting some of our fellow competitors, which waqs great for both of us ,l except we just cannot remember anyones name. Is it Ahmed from Turkey or Terry from Ahmabad ? Tonight we have agreed to roam the city with Chris and his co-driver . What his name is remains a mystery.

Physically we are both well although I have some slight chafing in a nasty place.

Nervous ahead of tomorrow as we are off to pick up the car – Can’t wait .

 

James  

Beijing

A days site seeing in hot, smoggy, humid Beijing.

 

We got dropped off at Wangfujing for James to buy a camera and dark glasses which we achieved relatively successfully. HeJames and I were guided around the Forbidden City by “Richard” who was a little difficult to understand. I persisted, James left me to it. Enormous palace with pavilion after pavilion. The Emperor made the paving 7m thick as he was convinced his subjects would tunnel in.

 

Then a quick beer and a visit to Tianenman Square which is enormous.

 

James then managed yet another sleep in the taxi back to the hotel. Few challenges getting the taxi driver to understand where we wanted to go but got there in the end.

 

RHC

reading our blog

Interestingly I cannot access our blog here in Beijing. I seem to be able to send updates to it but I’m not allowed to see it. I suspect that this is down to the infamous Chinese firewall – spooky. I hope that my updates are getting through. They are simply the ramblings of a couple of incoherent motorists after all!

 

I will call Al later on Skype (what a fantastic app – no traveller should go out without it!) and check whether they are getting through.

 

RHC

First night in Beijing

Hot, humid and smoggy and off to the Shangri-La Chinese restaurant for dinner. There’s a few things on the menu which we haven’t been offered before! And wisely we didn’t try them. Goose feet, tripe, sea cucumbers to name but a few.

 

We struggled to be understood when asking for “iced water” but got there in the end. We both ordered and everything which James ordered came all at once and none of mine. James had started dinner with “I always order far too much at Chinese restaurants”, and did precisely the same again. In my case it didn’t matter what I ordered because I clearly wasn’t going to get it.  We had a bottle of local “premier cru”, “Dragons sea” – presented in its own wooden box as if it was a massive rarity for anyone to actually buy a bottle – actually perfectly drinkable. The entire meal was then complicated by James ordering two puddings (deep fried banana and ice cream), which completely threw the staff. We gave up on the banana and paid the bill, only to be pursued from the restaurant by the retched banana (for which we had paid but by the time lost all enthusiasm for )

 

Met the South African lads from Car 55 on the way out. Everyone very friendly and full of enthusiasm and optimism.

 

Some shopping for supplies and a bit of site seeing. All competitors should be here tomorrow.

 

RHC

Arrival at Beijing

Emotional farewell to the children at Heathrow and off we go on a 777 to Dubai. A few drinks a very reasonable dinner. James as always managed to get a couple of hours kip in. In 30 years I have never figured out how he can sleep come what may, wherever, whenever!

 

Dubai was a bit of a nightmare at 3.00am in the morning but we cruised onto an Airbus A380 – very exciting and very comfortable. James yet again managed to get a couple of hours kip in. I watched Robin Hood followed by Generation 39.

 

Very sweaty Beijing. Thought we’d lost our bags but they turned up eventually, then off to the Shangri-La in a VW Fox. James once again managed to get some kip in! Sitting now in my very comfortable room 22 floors up looking out over a very smoggy Beijing.

 

Off for dins!

 

RHC

WE'RE OFF

Last day - a few nerves and off we go.

The night before departure.

I am sitting at my desk at home and pondering what on earth to pack for the weeks ahead. 

Just how many pairs of socks will I need ? Will I even need to wear socks ? 

A lovely peaceful evening outside as I wait for my P2P partner and his family to come 

and have a 'last' supper. 

Clothing notwithstanding I have a wad of dollars, some electrical equipment and other bits and pieces.

What else should i take ? My mind is a blank and just not functioning properly. 

Nervous, butterflies and slightly alarmed by how this seemingly innocent adventure appears to be 

taking over our lives. Grateful to Caron for all her help and consideration in letting me trip around the 

world for 7 weeks. Happy to be able to leave work behind and yet worried about all the what ifs.

Blogging for England is our motto and off we jolly well go .

James  

A headless chicken

I seem to be running around like a headless chicken, slightly nervous, depressed at leaving Alice and the children, worried about whether the car will start but excited as well.

 

I think that I’ve got everything – there’s not too many shops in the Gobi. I Hope that my petrol’s waiting for us!

 

Off to London tomorrow and the flying with James on Emirates on Sunday afternoon.

 

RHC

 

 

traffic jam - fun, fun, fun!

BEIJING — A massive traffic jam in north China that stretches for dozens of miles and hit its 10-day mark yesterday stems from road works

The gridlock, spanning 60 miles with vehicles moving little more than a half-mile a day at one point, has improved since this weekend, said Zhang Minghai, director of Zhangjiakou city’s Traffic Management Bureau.

Some drivers have been stuck in the jam for five days, China Central Television reported yesterday. But Zhang said he wasn’t sure when the situation along the Beijing-Zhangjiakou highway would return to normal.

The traffic jam started Aug. 14 on a stretch of the highway that is frequently congested, especially after large coalfields were discovered in Inner Mongolia, Zhang said.

Drivers stranded in the gridlock in the Inner Mongolia region and Hebei Province, headed toward Beijing, passed the time sleeping, walking around, or playing cards and chess. Local villagers were doing brisk business selling instant noodles, boxed lunches, and snacks, weaving between the trucks on bicycles. Though there were no reports of road rage, drivers complained about price-gouging by villagers

RHC

 

Car arrives in Beijing

The Cosco Korea arrived on 23^rd August in Beijing so all things being equal Car 66 will be awaiting collection on the 8^th Sept. God I do hope that she starts! One more thing to think about.

 

RHC

Dick Dastardly and Mutley

Dick Dastardly and Mutley were always up to all sorts of tricks usually getting ahead of the other competitors in the Wacky Races to divert them or set some cunning trap. I don’t want any such accusations about myself and Mutley, or do I mean James.

 

I have just returned from a week’s holiday with family in Tuscany and upon examining the route map have discovered that we were staying slap bang on the route in Castellina in Chianti. How weird is that? I know the turn in Castellina which we need to take, not an easy one and one which various cars will no doubt miss. More importantly I know a very nice Trattoria 1km off the route run by a lovely blond Italian where James and I will lunch! It’s the most beautiful countryside but will really test our gear changing abilities. The roads are very steep and very windy.

 

I can assure you that, apart from identifying a very nice Trattoria, I have done nothing Dick Dastardly’ish in Chianti.

 

Busy week ahead with last minute challenges. Not least of all is teaching Alice how to change the light bulbs (about 30 different varieties!). At least “the janitor” will know that he will be missed whilst away on his travels!

 

My passport came back with all my visas whilst I was away. The sat phone arrived so just funds now required. Some competitors have not been able to get their Turkmenistan visas in London and are having to try and get theirs in Beijing. I feel James and I have been very lucky not to have to go through that hassle.

 

RHC

 

 

OMG -

Well we are one week away now and the feeling of butterflies in my stomach won't go away. 

Just like going out to bat in a cricket match - unless I was playing Pakistan. 

Last weekend panic attacks will be for next weekend this bank holiday is all about 

relaxation and maybe catch up with David Ayres, he lives in the village we are off to stay in. 

Passport has come back with a simply whopping bill attached - simply whopping ! 

I have become a regular customer of Rohan and once I remind myself of how the Flip 

works I feel  I have all I need. 

Must remind myself to get Mr and Mrs Tumur's address in Ulaan Bataar but will do that this week .

Rabies - nearly finished can't wait to have a scrap with a foul smelling mutt in some faraway place 

knowing he can't do anything other than give me a good savaging but it won't leave me foaming at the mouth 

maybe only our navigational skills will do that. 

Onwards - As fatty Churchill said - "It will be long , it will be hard but there will be no withdrawal " or 

was that what the actress said to the Bishop ? 

JC  

GPS tracking

The tracking web site is now up and running. It can be accessed at the following URL.

 

http://livetrack.skytag-gps.co.uk/login_action.html?user=pekingparis&passw=skytag&action=login&skip_auto=1&lang=en

 

This is the main page and individual vehicles can be selected here.

 

There is no need for a login and password with this link.

Most of the vehicles will only go live in Peking in the days immediately prior to the rally, as they are currently in transit and not powered.

 

RHC

The last three weeks

Well in three weeks time James and I will be in Beijing awaiting collection of the car. The Cosco Korea seems to be making steady progress and subject to no disasters I’m sure will deliver Car 66 in plenty of time. Let’s just hope that they didn’t have to stop somewhere off Somalia and trade any of the cars for free passage!

 

I’m off to Tuscany on Saturday to celebrate my father-in-laws 75^th birthday. He told me last night that we are near to the “greatest painting in the world”. Not only are we all off to see it but we are to review a documentary DVD before departure to ensure that we are all properly briefed. Rory, bless him, has already volunteered to do the prep on behalf of the Cunningham’s and brief us on the way to the airport. Anything to avoid a “rumpus”!

 

Then it’s a final week of preparation and then off to China. Maybe there aren’t butterflies in my stomach yet but there are certainly a few small moths!

 

RHC