Update from Iran

Updates are I’m afraid as rare as access to WiFi which isn’t that frequent and comes after any work required on the car or our tummies (in every sense of the words!)

 

We had a couple of very hot days travelling across Turkmenistan. There are more policemen in Turkmenistan than civilians as far as I could make out. There was absolutely no chance of getting lost since at every junction there was an officer of some kind waving us on. The first day we went through the border to Turkmenabat. Sadly I went down with a dose of d&v, not ideal when sitting in an old car, on appalling roads in 40C. The second day we drove 630km to Ashquabat on the Iranian border. Both days consisted of mile after mile of nothing! Ashquabat is extradordinary, all new buildings made of white marble and new roads, but most of the buildings are empty. The old adage of “build it and they will come” hasn’t quite happened. Sadly I arrived, showered and went to bed of 12 hours. James did try the nightlife but it was fairly quiet.

 

Then off to Iran. The border crossing wasn’t going to be that bad and then all the competitors got involved. The problem of having some 300 very strong willed people all trying to get the same thing. One competitor jumped the line but his co-drivers visa was invalid so everything ground to a halt. Other competitors positioned their cars for a quick exit and blocked in cars whose drivers were able to enter Iran. The whole thing was chaos. James And I were lucky to have left early and been towards the front of the line however we were then blocked in for nearly 2 hours. We had a long drive ahead of us to Gorgan a distance of 510km and we didn’t want to drive it in the dark if possible. It was a fantastic entry into Iran where we were met to great fanfare by the Classic car club of Iran, a delightful team who gave us definitely the best welcome we have received. Then we travelled through beautiful mountains on perfect roads, just what the Lagonda was built for and she didn’t let us down. We didn’t have enough time to complete the journey in daylight and the last hour or so was fairly hairy since the locals often don’t put any lights on at all and the motorcycles are deadly weaving in and out and all around you. Some drivers sensed hostility but we just felt they were slightly mad.

 

Eventually we arrived at our Hotel in Gorgan to be told that the President was visiting Gorgan and had decreed that not westerners were to be allowed to sleep in any hotel. So  despite there being rooms, we weren’t going to be allowed to occupy them! As more and more cars arrived, and teams got more and more tired and dirty people began to get cross, surprisingly not James or I! The first initiative was to occupy the roof and various tents were erected on the roof. We held out, desperate for a shower! Eventually we were allowed to out 5 people per room, and squeezed 6 in to get everyone settled for the nikght. Lots of grumbles as you can imagine but we got a good shower and a good sleep so no complaints from us.

 

Today we left early to drive 630km to beyond Rasht to stay on the Caspian. It was driving through miles and miles of the very worst of Blackpool or Skegee but fascinating none the less. The last hour or so was in the rain, not ideal conditions for an old car with tired tyres, poor windscreen wipers and poor lights. Anyway we made it, even after I confessed to being somewhat nervous of James approach of driving like the locals!

 

This is such a schizophrenic country, such charm and kindness by so many off set by thievery and brutish behaviour by others. I have no doubt that the former is the natural state of the Iranian citizen.

 

I’m having some problems getting my photos onto the pc at the moment so I have posted some earlier ones to keep you amused

 

Off up into the mountains tomorrow to Tabriz and then into Turkey. One feels really on the way home when we get to Turkey. Long days but everyone bring us closer to home and the ones we love.

 

RHC